Sunday, 23 January 2011
Tuesday, 23 February 2010
My Bedouin adventure

Oh Gosh I thought as I boarded the flight for Tunisa, is this such a great idea to travel alone?
Pssport- money -hope a phone number and divine providence, yes yes bring it on. To late to worry now because the plane is hurtling down the runway
I had arranged to meet a guy called Mounir who had camels and was multi lingual. Poor man was appalled when i said I would make my own way to him and he insisted on meeting me at Carthage airport. Despite no money changing hands he was there on time and we made our way to the bus station.
I managed to leave my bag behind in a taxi which was not a total disaster because i always carry the really important stuff on my body. The phone was a bit of a problem but Mounir lent me one and also a camera. He also found me a fab hotel that suited my budget, the el Medina in Douz.
Douz is a wonderful town, tourist freindly and safe for lone female travelers, even scatty ones like me.
I have a burning passion for the desert, it feeds my soul. A good guide is essential the Sahara has many hidden treasures and much history. Dear Mounir runs a great team, they seem more like family and they clearly love to be in the Sahara. We spent many nights around the camp fire sharing stories listening to Hammadi playing his flute and eating great food. My children are always worried when I go off alone to stay in the desert with strange men, yet it is safer to be there with a reputable company than it is to go out here at night.
And of course the camel is important, some can be agressive, (I had a right bugger once) Kabuli was my camel provided by Mounir of desert authentique, gentle willing and quite a curious chappie who simply loved having his face cleaned with my wet wipes.
I totally recommend Desert authentique, good on value for money and 100% trustworthy.
The things you need to check when enquiring about any trip are as follows.
1) most important - does the company have valid all risks insurance.
2) Does the guide speak your language
3) How well does he know the area and history
4) is water included
5) is there a seperate camel for the baggage
I once had to ride a camel that was packed with so much stuff it was like sitting astride a moving arm chair. Definately not good....
For me one of the great things about Mounirs company was the personal sevice and he totally tailor made my trip to what I wanted to do and looked after me as if i was family. Can honestly say nothing was impossible for him or too much trouble
Le désert c'est notre vie et notre spécialité..."Désert en authentique"Exploration originale du désert et de la vie des nomadesMéharées/randonnéeschamelières/circuits en 4x4/bivouacs/logement chez les bédouins/Partager la vieavec les Nomades...Site web: http://desertauthentique.ifrance.com/Ghlissia4260 Douz Tunisie Téléphone: (00216)96575705
Le désert c'est notre vie et notre spécialité..."Désert en authentique"Exploration originale du désert et de la vie des nomadesMéharées/randonnéeschamelières/circuits en 4x4/bivouacs/logement chez les bédouins/Partager la vieavec les Nomades...Site web: http://desertauthentique.ifrance.com/Ghlissia4260 Douz Tunisie Téléphone: (00216)96575705
my best trek ever
Very hard to chose from my many treks which one was the best. Wadi rum and Petra awesome but the trip was marred by an aggresive very stinky camel and a guide who could not speak English or French and a cook who kept trying to get into my pants!!
I think for me, the most worry free trip was Tunisia, I found a guy from the internet and he seemed to tick all the right boxes so I went with my gut feeling and put myself in his hands. Thats a big leap in faith for solo lady traveller who only speaks English.
It was a good choice. The company owner quickly realised that I have a deep and profound love for the Sahara and everything in it. I chose to travel just before Ramadan and it was hot hot hot so I decided to do two nights out in the desert then one night in the Hotel ( air con bliss) and then off for another two days.
During the nights away from the desert Mounir called my room every night to check all was well, He took me to the camel station and let me feed the camels and meet his new baby camel. One night he took me to meet a bedouine family, freinds of his and we ate under the stars while the children slept on oblivious to the warm air the peace and the beauty of all around. I still have a small bracelet the bedouine lady took from her arm to give me.
I am a Sufi, it is an ancient mystical path the practices include whirling and chanting. One night Mounir Hammadi myself and the camels set off and Mounir promised me a surprise. Wow what a surprise it was. As the sun sank low and the desert began the beautiful and eerie process of setting itself into the night, I smelled cooking. Cookng, how?
We skirted a dune and i was surprised by the welcoming sight of fire cooking pots and desert bread being made. Not only had Mounir arranged a small party, bless him to the end of his days, one of the guys was a Sufi
Mohamed began chanting and drumming and soon the beating of the drum and the slow chant assailed my heart, the love flowed through me and Itoo began to chant under the stars, the ancient words flowing from me and through me Allah Hu Allah Haq Allah Ya Wadud.... .
In that moment the desert and everything it contained was in me and I was in it. Indivisble One.
How can you put a price on that.
Dear Mounir, he even lent me a camera and a mobile phone after I (scatty hag that I am lol) lost mine.
He is not only 100% good guy with heart as big as the Sahara itself he was born on there and has generations of wisom and knowlege to fall back on. Ah yes and his camels are gentle and cute and they love him lots. <desertenauthentique@yahoo.com>
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